Exhibition

Dior and Rochas: contemporary interpretations of gala wear

Opening of the MoMu Now exhibition with contemporary interpretations by gala wear by Rochas and Dior, Photo: MoMu/ Boy Kortekaas

Opening of the MoMu Now exhibition with contemporary interpretations by gala wear by Rochas and Dior, Photo: MoMu/ Boy Kortekaas

Traditionally, gala or evening wear is the domain of haute couture – custommade designer clothing often worn by royals, actresses and other celebrities for festive occasions. Eveningwear is usually associated with long clothes.

The four silhouettes at the opening of the MoMu Now exhibition are contemporary interpretations of gala wear: they are from the prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) lines by French fashion houses Rochas and Dior, and not from their couture collections.

A contemporary interpretation of gala wear by Raf Simons for Dior, Photo: MoMu/ Boy Kortekaas

A contemporary interpretation of gala wear by Raf Simons for Dior, Photo: MoMu/ Boy Kortekaas

The two Dior silhouettes, designed by the Belgium designer Raf Simons, flirt with the codes of formal evening wear: the ‘Bar Tailleur,’ referring to the famous 1947 New Look by Christian Dior, is turned into a smoking with masculine tones; the cocktail dress was cut in half and worn with shorts, breaking with the conventions of long evening wear. The Dior silhouettes were purchased by the VZW MoMu+Friends for the MoMu collection.

The silhouettes by Olivier Theyskens for Rochas are more typical examples of long evening wear decorated with black lace.

Exhibition, Press&PR

Covercraft by A Magazine Curated by until January 4th at the MoMu entrance hall

Covercraft, a temporary installation by A Magazine curated by in the entrance hall of the MoMu, Photo: Frederik Vercruysse

Covercraft, a temporary installation by A Magazine curated by in the entrance hall of the MoMu, Photo: Frederik Vercruysse

MoMu is proud to welcome COVERCRAFT, a temporary installation (until Jan 4, 2015) by A Magazine Curated by in the entrance hall of the museum.

The installation COVERCRAFT spans over a decade of independent publishing in partnership with some of the most avant- garde and exciting names in fashion design today. A Magazine Curated By has commissioned its past curating designers to create new artwork, taking inspiration from the iconic ‘A’ fused with an update of their aesthetic for today. The physical works are exposed in a setting at the monumental entrance hall of MoMu. Applying the ‘carte blanche’ concept of A Magazine in this format has rendered a diverse selection of works spanning both archival and new con- tent, in 2D works representing the wider artistic context of fashion design today. The installation was first conceived for the 29th Hyères festival and especially for Antwerp, a new work was conceived by Veronique Branquinho.

Covercraft, a temporary installation by A Magazine curated by in the entrance hall of the MoMu, Photo: Frederik Vercruysse

Covercraft, a temporary installation by A Magazine curated by in the entrance hall of the MoMu, Photo: Frederik Vercruysse

Other designers featured are Kris Van Assche, Veronqiue Branquinho, Hussein Chalayan, Iris va Herpen, Stephen Jones, Maison Martin Margiela, Rodarte, Viktor & Rolf, Dirk Van Saene, Proenza Schouler, Martine Sitbon, Jun Takahashi, Olivier Theyskens, Riccardo Tisci, Bernhard Willhelm and Yohji Yamamoto.

Mamma Baloops: I Had Sex With A Hologram! from A Magazine Curated By on Vimeo.

A Magazine and MoMu share similar values about avant-garde fashion design and an interest in the creative worlds that lie behind these designers’ signatures. For this reason, they also share some designers and collaborators since ten years, and decided that the MoMu Now exhibition marks a great occasion to show the rich variety of A Mag’s Covercraft in the MoMu entrance hall.

Behind the scenes, Exhibition

My favorite things: Eric Van De Kerckhove

Eric Van de Kerckhove, guard at MoMu with his favorite silhouette from the MoMu Now expo.

Eric Van de Kerckhove, guard at MoMu with his favorite silhouette from the MoMu Now expo.

In an ongoing series ‘My Favourite Things’ we ask MoMu staff members to choose their favourite object from the current exhibition.

Eric Van de Kerckhove, guard: Ensemble in silk twill weave with assymetrical coat and wraparound skirt, leather legging, gloves and high leather boots, Ann Demeulemeester, F/W 2012-2013.

‘When I look at this silhouette I get a playful feeling, but it’s also a very fierce outfit, it’s really meant for a strong, confident type of woman .
The combination of blue feathered headgear and black leather is remarkable and seems like a perfect fit for a warrior type.
It also radiates something erotic and energetic. The combination of sensual and strong materials combined with a perfect cut is typical for Ann Demeulemeester.’

Event, Press&PR

ASVOFF#7 in Antwerp December 2nd & 3rd

ASVOFF ANTWERP, Illustration: Jesus Sandoval, Graphic Design: Paul Boudens

ASVOFF ANTWERP, Illustration: Jesus Sandoval, Graphic Design: Paul Boudens

After last years’ successful 1st edition, ASVOFF will again come to Antwerp this year. The film festival regarding fashion, an initiative by the international fashion icon Diane Pernet, will take place on December 2nd and 3rd in the St. Augustine Church in Antwerp.

Founded in 2008 by the internationally acclaimed fashion critic and video journalist Diane Pernet, A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF) is the world’s first annual festival dedicated to fashion films. ASVOFF is not only a competition of short films about fashion and style but also a traveling international event showcasing feature films, documentaries, conferences, performances and installations.

The seventh edition of ASVOFF will take place in Antwerp on December 2nd and 3rd, after its première at Centre Pompidou, Paris. ASVOFF #7 ANTWERP is organized in collaboration with MoMu, Fashion Museum province of Antwerp and the city of Antwerp. It will take place in AMUZ, situated in and around the 17th century baroque St. Augustine Church, located in the center of Antwerp.

The program includes a selection of short films by among others Mike Figgis, Ellen Von Unwerth, Bruce Weber, Christopher Doyle, Bruce LaBruce, Adan Jodorowsky, David Lachapelle, Blancia Li, Jonathan Caouette, Park Chan-Wook, Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello and Tim Yip.

During the ASVOFF festival, MoMu will also present a series of short films made by Belgian talents including works of Frederik Heyman, Michaël, Leonardo Van Dijl and a selection of ‘Inspirations’ movies by Dries Van Noten who is also the chairman of the jury of this year’s edition.

ASVOFF#7 ANTWERP
AMUZ, Kammenstraat 81, 2000 Antwerp
Tuesday December 2nd, from 7PM until 11PM (invitation only)
Wednesday December 3rd, from 7PM until 11PM (free entrance, reservation obligatory asvoff@momu.be)

Behind the scenes, Exhibition

My favorite things: Christel Dierckx

Christel Dierckx, guard with her favorite silhouette of the MoMu Now exhibition

Christel Dierckx, guard with her favorite silhouette of the MoMu Now exhibition

In an ongoing series ‘My Favourite Things’ we ask MoMu staff members to choose their favourite object from the current exhibition.

Christel Dierckx, guard: Ensemble in silk and tulle decorated with flocked stripes and floral patterns, with two waistcoats, trousers, silk tricot sleeves, and a pair of open chamois boots, Ann Demeulemeester, S/S 2014.

‘This silhouette by Ann Demeulemeester to me is perfection. I love the way all the pieces are so harmoniously assembled, it’s like a jigsaw. I think the hat and the shoes really add the final touches to the whole. I love the colors, materials and the femininity of this look, it’s a very elegant, sweeping silhouette. If I could, I would love to wear it myself.’

Exhibition

Class of 2014: Historical Costume at MoMu Gallery

Illustration: Ola Kawalko

Illustration: Ola Kawalko

Until the 4th of January, you can enjoy the historical costumes made by the talented students of the 2nd year of the Antwerp Fashion Department in our MoMu Gallery (free entrance). These costumes were also part of SHOW14.

From the rich history of fashion and dress, each 2BA student has to choose a historical figure with a costume typical for the period. The students have to do thorough research, including the political, cultural and social structures of the time, as well as a detailed study of the fabrics, materials, patterns and shapes that are characteristic of the costume. The students then spend the first two months recreating the costume down to the smallest details, including underwear, accessories, hairstyles and make-up.

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The result is a contemporary improvisation using ‘calicot’ cotton as a basic fabric and colour, and using the original document as a reference for recreating authentic volumes, structures, decoration and colours. This time-consuming assignment prepares the students for the work they will have to do during the next two terms, in which the emphasis lies in the creation of an avant-garde fashion collection of five silhouettes.

The poster image is a drawing by Ola Kawalko (Poland) who chose a self-portrait by the American photographer Frances Benjamin Johnston from 1896 as the basis for her historical costume. The atmospheric photograph drew the attention of Kawalko and she created intriguing graphic work inspired by it, which can be seen in the gallery next to the historical costumes of the 2BA of the class of 2014.

We are astonished by the incredible details and the historical accuracy of these costumes. We encourage everyone to stop by our MoMu Gallery and enjoy these talents first-hand. It will not be the last time that we hear from them!

Words by Monica Ho

Exhibition

My favorite things: Fréderic Boutié

In a new series ‘My Favourite Things’ we ask MoMu staff members to choose their favourite object from the current exhibition.

Since fashion is such a subjective and personal choice, this will make for some very varied and surprising objects, resulting in an amalgam of favourites across different exhibitions. You will get to know the MoMu staff through their choices and reasons for choosing the object, and because of their personal note and picture.

And since no one dislikes “Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes”, let’s ring in the new series with a festive Julie Andrews.

First in our series is Fréderic Boutié from Paris, conservation and restoration intern at the MoMu Collection department: ‘My favorite object is the Christian Dior by Raf Simons outfit for spring-summer 2013. It is composed by a sleeveless top in black wool and a ballon skirt in printed silk and organza with changing reflects.

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This is the first outfit for which I had to do the mannequinage for the exhibition “MoMu Now”. I could fully explore his scholarly construction which is a beautiful tribute to Christian Dior and the lines he has initiated. The architecture of the skirt is almost identical to those created in the late 1940′s and 1950′s. Its shape is created by layers of tulle and silk and just needs a support to be given to see, as a real sculpture. The changing effects from the organza in synthetic fibers give a very modern effect and invite us to turn around.

My work on this piece was mainly focused on the top, a little too wide for the bust. I had to transform this stockman bust so that it follows the lines of the knitted top in a way to respect the small waist and keep this silhouette that evokes the “New Look”.’

Collection, Exhibition

Dreamsuits by Bobbejaan & Josée Schoepen

MoMu Now - Contemporary Fashion from the MoMu Collection, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

MoMu Now – Contemporary Fashion from the MoMu Collection, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

You can see two outfits by the American ‘Rodeo Tailor’ Nudie Cohn in the exhibition MoMu Now, which were made for and worn by the Belgian music icon, entertainer and theme park owner Bobbejaan Schoepen and his wife Josée. Bobbejaan and Josée Schoepen wore these sparkling outfits for their music gigs at the Bobbejaanland theme park in the North of Antwerp in the 1970s. The typical ‘rhinestone cowboy’ look was initiated and brought to perfection by cult designer Nudie Cohn who made iconic outfits for stars like Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, John Lennon, Gram Parsons and Hank Williams. Bobbejaan was a lifelong customer and dear friend of Nudie Cohn and had the largest European collection of Nudie Cohn suits, as well as other designs like saddles, hats, a Cadillac and other objects.

Recently, after Bobbejaan died in 2010, the Schoepen family decided to bring the whole private Nudie Cohn clothing collection into the custody of MoMu, where they are kept in storage.
MoMu focuses in its collection policy mostly on Belgian designers, but also on iconic Belgians who have amazing private designer collections. The long-term loan of the Schoepen family is hence part of the recent acquisitions and can be seen in MoMu Now. This way, the memory of Bobbejaan and Josée Schoepen is still alive today and kept safe for tomorrow.

Nudie Cohn’s silhouettes have recently been rediscovered by the international fashion community, and for the 2011 exhibition ‘Dreamsuits: designs by Nudie Cohn, the Rodeo tailor’ curated by Mairi Mackenzie , Alice Hawkins from SHOWStudio made a great fashion film with Bobbejaan Schoepen’s dreamsuits worn by contemporary music icons.

Collection, Event

Workshop: recognizing lace techniques

(c) MoMu - Photo: Suzan Rylant

(c) MoMu – Photo: Suzan Rylant

Are you a lace fanatic or interested in the techniques of making lace? Then we have got a treat for you! On Tuesday, the 18th of November, MoMu is organizing a workshop that revolves around lace! It will take place partly in MoMu and partly in the Carolus Borromeus Church. The purpose of this workshop is to make the participants aware of the different techniques that go into the process of making lace.

Joining us will be Frieda Sorber, conservator of the historic collection in MoMu and Godelieve Vroom and Nora Andries, both who have connections with the Carolus Borromeus Church. Frieda Sorber manages our extensive lace collection and regularly advises in lace collections in Belgium and abroad. Godelieve and Nora are volunteers who are active in different churches and museums.

(c) MoMu - Photo: Suzan Rylant

(c) MoMu – Photo: Suzan Rylant

The day of the workshop will start off with a presentation on how to handle lace and identifying the various lace structures on the basis of the study collection of MoMu. In the afternoon, an introduction of various 17th and 18th centuries lace styles based on the collection of the Carolus Borromeus Church will be given.

(c) MoMu - Photo: Suzan Rylant

(c) MoMu – Photo: Suzan Rylant

Registration for the workshop is required. The number of places in the workshop is limited so signing up quickly is the key! Registration fee is 35 euros per person. Please send a mail to info@momu.be and state your name, address and possibly name of the institution/organization.

Event

The Big Draw selection

Last weekend we received a huge amount of participants for the first edition of The Big Draw in Antwerp!

Together with madeleine Coisne, we challenged you to find a building in Antwerp that inspires you and draw it on a piece paper and sketch the pattern that draws your attention the most! Here is a selection of the results! Thanks for your participation!

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