Exhibition

Happy Valentine’s Day!

It’s no wonder that the exhibition catalogue of ‘Rik Wouters & The Private Utopia’ is called ‘Lust for Life’. The love and intimicacy between Belgian painter Wouters and his wife and muse Nel Duerinckx is the central theme of the exhibition and the works on show. A lust for love and life runs through the works: from painting to sculpture and drawings, it is a neverending love story. Whether he paints or sculpts Nel in an exuberant mood or depicts her in daily tasks  or more pensive attitudes, there’s always the light in Nel’s eyes and spirit which inspires Rik. His work is inseparable from his love for Nel: there’s Nel and colours, everywhere.

Happy Valentine from MoMu!

Library

“A Magazine Curated By”, the Research

N°D Olivier Theyskens

MoMu’s library collection aims to help those who want to learn more about fashion. Researchers find their way to the library and one of them is Saul Marcadent, a PhD candidate in Fashion design at Iuav University of Venice. Among his research interests, the relations between publishing, fashion and visual culture, with a special focus on small publishers and niche magazines.

This research deals with the reading, analysis and interpretation of magazines intended as places of production and devices of the imagery and while questioning their role in the creation of the material and immaterial identity of fashion.

N°C Hussein Chalayan

Although magazines represent a precious resource for fashion researchers, a fundamental tool for the development of editorial and exhibition projects, magazines studies still play a marginal role in research, a field of study that is less cultivated in spite of its relevant historical precedents. In this regard, a perfect example is the work that Roland Barthes carried out on two French magazines – “Elle” and “Jardin des modes” – within a precise timeframe, which resulted in the long essay published in 1967, “Système de la mode”.

Having restricted its scope, this research moves through four long-term issues related to niche magazine publishing – temporal dimension, magazine-city relationship, imagery, art direction as element of conjunction and a form of curating – and their modes of expression since the Nineties. Each topic is supported by a theoretical core as well as by a case study and it gives way to a series of editorial episodes. The preferred method is interdisciplinary – historical, sociological and semiological at the same time – and the approach, inductive.

N°A Dirk van Saene

Among the case studies, “A Magazine Curated By”. The recent essay “Anversa 2001. Editoria, mostre e immaginari della moda” – included in the book “Design e immaginario. Oggetti, immagini e visioni fra rappresentazione e progetto” (Il Poligrafo, 2016)– investigates the first issues of the magazine, published between 2001 and 2003, entitled by using letters in alphabetical order; “N°A”, “N°B”, “N°C” and “N°D”are assigned to the fashion designers Dirk van Saene, Bernard Willhelm, Hussein Chalayan and Olivier Theyskens.

N°B Bernard Willhelm

The essay deals with the themes of authorship and imagery by highlighting the distinctive features of the magazine: the difference between the roles of editor-in-chief, Gerdi Esch, and guest curator; advertising intended as part of the editorial project with the aim of a mutual enhancement advertiser-magazine; the fashion journal is an experimental workshop in the frame of the complexity of the festival “Mode 2001 Landed-Geland”, a cultural and political initiative that underlines the importance of Antwerp as city of fashion and especially as the voice of Flemish fashion in the international scene.

The case study is to be further developed through the analysis of the archive material regarding the first issues of “A Magazine” as well as with a double conversation with Gerdi Esch and Paul Boudens, editor and art director of the editorial experience.

Words by Saul Marcadent

Exhibition

Margiela. The Hermès Years

© HERMÈS Autumn/Winter 1998 image of the advertising campaign over-painted by Martin Margiela (Cape Cod watch designed by Henri d’Origny and double-tour strap bracelet created by Martin Margiela) - photo Thierry Le Goues - graphic design Jelle Jespers

© HERMÈS Autumn/Winter 1998 image of the advertising campaign over-painted by Martin Margiela (Cape Cod watch designed by Henri d’Origny and double-tour strap bracelet created by Martin Margiela) – photo Thierry Le Goues – graphic design Jelle Jespers

 

From 31 March 2017 to 27 August 2017, MoMu will open its newest expo Margiela. The Hermès Years! MoMu is displaying Belgian stylist Martin Margiela’s Hermès collections from 1997 to 2003 for the first time. As well as this, the tribute exhibition also explores the relationship during these years between these collections and his own label, Maison Martin Margiela. Groundbreaking deconstruction and timeless luxury – the two worlds of designer Martin Margiela – are the starting point of the exhibition ‘‘Margiela – The Hermès Years’’.

From 1997 to 2003, Margiela instilled his exhaustive and consistent vision of modern-day luxury into twelve consecutive Hermès collections. His sleek designs for the Hermès woman were all about comfort, timelessness and tactility, values that he shared with the house and that defined his vision of the Hermès woman associated with an understated style. The image he presented for Hermès surprised the press because of its unexpected direction. His sober and monochrome colour palette diverged from the typical brightly-coloured Hermès prints. Assisted by the outstanding craftsmanship of the Hermès studios, Margiela was able to distil his design and tailoring into sheer perfection, supported by extensive material research that not only enhanced the comfort of the wearer, but also introduced numerous innovations.

Margiela’s work for Hermès continues to influence the work of many contemporary designers. During Paris Fashion Week for autumn-winter 2016-2017, the international press described Martin Margiela – who retreated from the fashion world more than eight years ago – as the “true protagonist” of fashion week. High time to showcase some of his masterpieces with “Margiela – The Hermès Years” at MoMu.

Margiela. The Hermès Years 31/03/2017 > 27/08/2017

Event

Act! Cut! Play!

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ACT! CUT! PLAY! is a new interdisciplinary project that aims to bring the quality of fashion film to the next level by creating a prominent role for the performing arts (theater/dance maker). Three teams based of Dutch and Flemish theatermakers, designers and filmmakers are challenged  to jointly investigate the possibilities and limits of their disciplines within the genre of ‘fashion film’. Starting with the stories of theater/dance makers three short fashion films will be developed which will be showcased internationally in both the fashion, theater and art world.

Team 1: Suze Milius, Femke Huurdeman and Marie-Sophie Beinke
Team 2: Jelena Kostic, Leen Michiels and Schueller de Waal
Team 3: Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck, Daniel van Hauten and Emmanuel A. Ryngaert

MoMu presents the results on Thursday 9 February at DE Studio from 19h until 22h. The continuous film presentations are mixed with installations.

Act! Cut! Play! is a project by the Brakke Grond in collaboration with Fashionclash Festival and MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp.
INFO

Thursday 9 February 2017
from 19h until 22h

entrance is free and activities are continuous
RSVP through Facebook

DE Studio
Maarschalk Gerardstraat 4
2000 Antwerpen

Behind the scenes, Collection, Exhibition

Natan. The Dress – Documentary

In 2016, Belgian fashion house Natan gifted MoMu a couture creation. As a result of this gift, the ModeMuseum has created a film documenting the entire design and manufacturing process of the dress. The film records the various stages of the creative process of the dress: from the early design idea, the first sketch and the various fittings in the studio to the photo shoot with the model. The film is supplemented by interviews with Kaat Debo (Director of MoMu), Christian Salez (Furthermore Ltd London and Executive Director at Natan) and Pierre Mallevays (Managing Partner at Savigny Partners LLP).

Presenting the creative process is a unique opportunity, considering the museum is usually only able to acquire and purchase end products for its collections. With this project, MoMu  not only wants to highlight the great craftsmanship of Edouard Vermeulen, designer and owner of the Natan house, but also to show a glimpse behind the scenes of the house and the professional skill of the team active in the Natan couture studio.

The film and exhibition were made possible with support from the Deutsche Bank.

Natan. The Dress until 26th February 2017 at MoMu Gallery (free entrance)

Collection

Natan. The Dress expo until 26 February 2017 at MoMu!

Photo by Maxim Prokaz

Photo by Maxim Prokaz

Great news! Due to the success of our Natan. The Dress expo, MoMu has decided to extend the expo until 26th February 2017! The expo has already attract 17.000 visitors since its opening in October! Expect a selection of unique Natan creations and a couture gown that was gifted to MoMu. Natan. The Dress in MoMu Gallery (free entrance) made possible by Deutsche Bank.

Exhibition

Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia – Line Drawings

(c) MoMu Antwerp / Stany Dederen

(c) MoMu Antwerp / Stany Dederen

Wouters made several portraits of Nel in her famous dress with the red stripes. One such example is this work, Reading Woman (green book). Due do their limited financial means, Nel owned only a handful of fancy dresses, which she had ordered to be made using bright colours to inspire her husband. These dresses therefore feature time and time again in Wouters’s work. The artist Fernand Verhaegen also painted Nel in her striped dress, which only cost her 12.50 francs.

The designer Christian Wijnants created fashion that is both comfortable and sophisticated and combines handicraft techniques (dyeing, knitting, embroidery) with high-tech materials and processes. The soft, restrained nature of his collections is imbued with an artistic aesthetic: Wijnants paints using strips of fabric, he assembles collages using a range of application techniques, and he dyes his wool by hand, thereby creating a subtle play of colours. For this room, he selected silhouettes that employed a hand-painted stripe motif, as an ode to Nel Wouters’s striped dress.

Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia until 26th February 2017 at MoMu Antwerp

 

Exhibition

RECOLLECTION – ART & FASHION

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It’s no secret that Belgium is proud of its local artists and designers. With an international reputation, Belgium is on the forefront when it comes to artistry. With that being said, Belfius opened its Belfius archives and created a new expo ‘RECOLLECTION – ART & FASHION’ featuring works of Belgian artists such as Rubens, Pourbus, Théo Van Rysselberghe, Jef Verheyen, Jo Delahaut and Rinus Van de Velde interacting with silhouettes from the MoMu archives and from private collections, with studio KRJST as décor builder.

(c) Studio KRJST

(c) Studio KRJST

In collaboration with MAD Brussels and the Flanders Fashion Institute, Belfius gave a few young designers the opportunity to design a silhouette inspired by the Belfius collection which is the perfect way to draw attention to the artistry of the designs. Thanks to these young designers including Marie-Sophie Beinke, KRJST, Gioia Seghers, Kim Stumpf, Doriane van Overeem and Pierre-Antoine Vettorello, the Belgian fashion academies secured their spot internationally.

(c) Studio KRJST

(c) Studio KRJST

 

RECOLLECTION – ART & FASHION until 23 April 2017 in Belfius Art Gallery, Brussels

Exhibition

Margiela. The Hermès Years

HERMÈS “Losanges” Spring/Summer 2003 - photo Nathaniel Goldberg // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Spring/Summer 1989 - photo Ronald Stoops - graphic design Jelle Jespers

HERMÈS “Losanges” Spring/Summer 2003 – photo Nathaniel Goldberg // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Spring/Summer 1989 – photo Ronald Stoops – graphic design Jelle Jespers

MoMu excitedly announces its upcoming exhibition Margiela. The Hermès Years that will be on display from 31 March 2017 to 27 August 2017.

For the first time, Margiela’s collection from 1997 to 2003 will be displayed. As well as this, the tribute exhibition also explores the relationship during these years between these collections and his own label, Maison Martin Margiela. Groundbreaking deconstruction and timeless luxury – the two worlds of designer Martin Margiela – are the starting point of the exhibition ‘‘Margiela – The Hermès Years’’.

HERMÈS “La femme et le photographe : Isabelle” Spring/Summer 2001 - photo Alexia Silvagny // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Autumn/Winter 1991-1992 - photo Ronald Stoops - graphic design Jelle Jespers

HERMÈS “La femme et le photographe : Isabelle” Spring/Summer 2001 – photo Alexia Silvagni // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Autumn/Winter 1991-1992 – photo Ronald Stoops – graphic design Jelle Jespers

Margiela’s work for Hermès continues to influence the work of many contemporary designers. During Paris Fashion Week for autumn-winter 2016-2017, the international press described Martin Margiela – who retreated from the fashion world more than eight years ago – as the “true protagonist” of fashion week. High time to showcase some of his masterpieces with “Margiela – The Hermès Years” at MoMu.

 

HERMÈS “Portraits de femme en Hermès : Marie-Anne” Autumn/Winter 1999-2000 - photo Joanna Van Mulder // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Autumn/Winter 1990-1991 - photo Ronald Stoops - graphic design Jelle Jespers

HERMÈS “Portraits de femme en Hermès : Marie-Anne” Autumn/Winter 1999-2000 – photo Joanna Van Mulder // MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Autumn/Winter 1990-1991 – photo Ronald Stoops – graphic design Jelle Jespers

Margiela. The Hermès Years from 31 March 2017 to 27 August 2017.

 

Event

MOOI Festival

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Art center Villanella and Belgian designer Bruno Pieters have joined forces to find out the future of fashion during the two-day MOOI Festival. All weekend long, MOOI Festival is offering the opportunity to educate the audience about fair fashion.

Antwerp is known as sustainable fashion capital but what can designers learn from each other regarding sustainability? What changes awaits us? How will the fashion of tomorrow look like? These are all questions that will be answered during MOOI Festival.

Walter Van Beirendonck will make a special appearance during the talks on Saturday 29th October. As head of the Fashion Department of the Antwerp Academy, Walter will give his opinion about education and its role in sustainable fashion.

MOOI Festival 29th & 30th October.