The black of Raf Simons

Raf Simons A/W 1999/2000

On the occasion of Black. Masters of Black in Fashion & Costume, MoMu selected several Belgian and international contemporary designers, all of whom have a specific relationship with the colour black. One of these Masters of Black is Raf Simons whom we attributed a special spot in the exhibition with a selection of ten capes in wool, cotton, knitwork and synthetic fibre from his A/W 1999-2000 collection.

The presentation of this collection opened with a group of boys carrying black flags with ‘DISORDER‘, ‘INCUBATION‘ and ‘ISOLATION‘ written on them, referring to songs by the British band Joy Division, as well as the title of the collection. The procession split to reveal models with black, sharply delineated hairdos, wearing black, three-quarter-lenght capes: assymetrical, in classic tailoring or circular patterns. This was followed by silhouettes inspired by ceremonial dress with, for example, detachable cuffs and collars. In the second part of the show, the silhouettes evolved from black to grey, in classic woolen fabrics and sober cuts, this time worn by models with blond hair.