Library

Wartime Fashion

cover Wartime Fashion

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Anyone with an active interest in World War II and fashion can now upgrade his knowledge with the new and essential reading, Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945, now available at the MoMu Library.

The Second World War and dress in Great-Britain were the inspiration for Geraldine Howells comprehensive analysis and study. Howell puts dress at the forefront of a complex series of cultural chain reactions. She explores the impact of war on the dress and appearance of civilian women of all classes in context of changing social and economic infrastructures created by the national emergency. – Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945 by Geraldine Howell.

Text by Lize Römer

Library

Inspired by… History of Dutch textiles

cover When Weaving Florished

Recently the library has been supplemented with several books about the weaving, silk and coton industry in Holland, more specific Amsterdam and Haarlem.

One of them is the book of Sjoukje ColenbranderWhen Weaving Flourished: the silk industry in Amsterdam and Haarlem, 1585-1750. This book gives an impression of the little known subject of the flourishing silk industry in Holland and gives us a glimpse into the lives of those involved.

Silk is also an important topic in A History of Dutch Quilts by An Moonen. Moonen tells about the long tradition and gives a comprehensive insight of quilt making in Holland that has it’s oldest references out the 13th century.
To deepen your knowledge about Dutch textile even more you can also read the new study of Herman Kaptein: de Hollandse Textielnijverheid 1350-1600: conjunctuur en continuiteit. Also when you like to read more about textiles, try Susan Kay-Williams’: The Story of Colour in Textiles.

Text by Lize Römer

Library

1920s Fashion The Definitive Sourcebook

The MoMu library just received 3 beautiful books written and edited by Charlotte Fiell and Emmanuelle Dirix: three ‘Definitive Sourcebooks’ on 1920s, 1930s and 1940s fashion.

Emmanuelle Dirix is a long-time collaborator, researcher and curator for MoMu and teaches fashion history in London (LCF, CSM) as well as at Antwerp’s fashion department.

The three books contain a critical text on the fashions and defining events of these decades which influenced fashion. The 600+ fashion plates and images illustrate very thoroughly the fashion changes over the years, the representation of women and the use of materials and techniques by different designers and fashion houses.

20sFashion21

As one can imagine, these 3 decades have seen major changes in society as well as in fashion. In the first book on the fashions of the Roaring Twenties, Dirix debunks the myth that all of Europe was dressed as the typical ‘flapper girls’ and shows how the 1920S brought about major changes in society which were reflected in easier, democratized fashions for these new types of working women. Coco Chanel’s “pauvre chic” gets some attention as well as the evolution in European couture houses and the copies of Parisian fashions abroad. The influence of sportswear on high fashion is visible in the fashion plates of the time. The image plates are divided into daywear, evening wear, outerwear and the typical 1920s accessories such as boas and hats.
The images in this book are a true feast for the eye!

Behind the scenes, Collection, Press&PR

A tour at the MoMu Archives for Opening Ceremony

MoMu - Fashion Museum province of Antwerp archives of the MoMu collection, Photo: Senne Van der Ven for OC

MoMu – Fashion Museum province of Antwerp archives of the MoMu collection, Photo: Senne Van der Ven for OC

This year Opening Ceremony is celebrating all things Belgium and paid an exclusive visit to the the MoMu Archives together with Wim Mertens, curator of the MoMu collection, check out the report here!

Press&PR

MOMU IN VOGUE USA

Kaat Debo, director MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp in Vogue USA

Kaat Debo, director MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp in Vogue USA

We are very proud to be featured in the November issue of Vogue USA!

The magazine dedicated an article on young European fashion museum and curators. “Kaat Debo leads the next generation of curators redefining fashion museum worldwide.”

Exhibition

HBDA Scenography & Dolls

50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department Exhibition and Dolls from MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp on Vimeo.

Check out this video shot at the opening of the ’50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department’ exhibition and mixed with the custom-made Bonami mannequins.

Exhibition, Press&PR

Bonami for Happy Birthday Dear Academie

Custom-made mannequins by BONAMI exclusively made for the expo 50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

Custom-made mannequins by BONAMI exclusively made for the expo 50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

The current exhibition Happy Birthday Dear Academie radiates a unique atmosphere, created as well by the custom made ‘mannequin’ dolls exclusively manufactured for the exhibition by the Belgian company BONAMI from Aalter, who are world renowned for their innovative mannequins.

(c) Photo: BONAMI

(c) Photo: BONAMI

By means of four different themes in the exhibition (Arcadia, Nirvana, Desire & Harmony/Protest), gathering the graduation projects of different generations of students an image emerges of the Antwerp Fashion Department’s unique training program as an artistic cocoon. Co-curator and scenographer Walter Van Beirendonck chose 4 pastel colours to match with the themes which were applied on the exhibitions walls and also on the BONAMI dolls.

(c) Photo: BONAMI

(c) Photo: BONAMI

(c) Photo: BONAMI

(c) Photo: BONAMI

In terms of authentic display figures and visual displays, Mannequins BONAMI has been an established name since 1987 and managed to build an international reputation on every continent: from Tokyo to New York, from Sydney to Paris. Nowadays over 80% of its turnover is generated abroad.

(c) Photo: BONAMI

(c) Photo: BONAMI

Bonami develops its own creations for different markets, and in addition, it designs custom-made products for larger client groups. This way, the client is involved at all times, from the prior brainstorming sessions to the creation itself, the first prototype, the finishing, the delivery to the shop, and the subsequent follow-up. This continuous collaboration and the direct communication with artistic directors, photographers, in-house sculptors & designers indeed ensure that BONAMI’s mannequins exceed clients’ expectations and increase their fashion brand’s international visibility.

Custom-made mannequins by BONAMI exclusively made for the expo 50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

Custom-made mannequins by BONAMI exclusively made for the expo 50 Years Antwerp Fashion Department, Photo: Boy Kortekaas

From its renewed showroom in Aalter, BONAMI wishes to inspire every fashion company in Belgium and in the rest of the world.

Event

ASVOFF#6 ANTWERP PUBLIC AWARD

ASVOFF#6 Antwerp public vote goes to 'Monster Love' by Soko

ASVOFF#6 Antwerp public vote goes to ‘Monster Love’ by Soko

During the ASVOFF#6 screenings in Antwerp we asked the audience to cast their vote to their favourite short film! The Antwerp edition public award goes to ‘Monster Love’ by the French singer/actress Soko.

The film is a VHS-recorded promo about a hartbroken monster who tries to win the affection of a mermaid, but ends up with another monster (played by Soko) and was shot in the Silverlake neighbourhood of L.A and is soundtracked by a song that shares its title by Soko in duet with L.A. underground star Ariel Pink.

Collection, Event, Exhibition

MOMU3 X BULO VIDEO ONLINE!

MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert from MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp on Vimeo.

For MOMU3 X BULO, MoMu invited visual artist Frederik Heyman to work on the MoMu collection, in a way that transcends the static character of a traditional exhibition. For MOMU3, Heyman creates, in collaboration with graphic artist Wout Bosschaert, 3 fashion films in which he infuses the rich collection of the ModeMuseum with digital life by using 3D scans and manipulations.

The video is divided in three parts: Embroidery, Skirts and Motifs.

Dries Van Noten S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dries Van Noten S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dries Van Noten S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dries Van Noten S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

EMBROIDERY: Embroidery is a decorating technique which is still being used in fashion today, from a minimalist accent to a piece which is completely covered. Variation in color, application and choice of embroidery threads, other materials and production (by manual labour or mechanical).
Featuring: Two dresses in silk crêpe decorated with bead embroidery, Huis Timmermans Lier, 1925-27, MoMu collection T86/65 and T86/126 / Dress in crêpe decorated with embroidery in mohair and appliqué embroidery in silk crêpe, Olivier Theyskens for Rochas, F/W 2003-04, MoMu collection T09/674AB / Ensemble with coat in silk decorated with embroidery and bead embroidery, a blouse and pants in printed silk, Dries Van Noten, S/S 2008, MoMu collection T09/48 and T09/50.

Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2008 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Jacket in printed cotton, 1770-1790 and skirt in quilted silk satin, 1750-90 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Jacket in printed cotton, 1770-1790 and skirt in quilted silk satin, 1750-90 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

SKIRTS: Skirts largely define the silhout of a woman in fashion trends. They can be straight and tight to wide and bulky. The latter is obtained by cutting folds and frowns, wether or not in combination with one or more underskirts or by using so called paniers, crinolines, or bustles: constructions in reed, metal or plastic that hold the dress or skirt away from the body.
Featuring: Jacket in printed cotton, 1770-1790 and skirt in quilted silk satin, 1750-90, MoMu collection T12/15/B8 and T13/348/B91 / Ensemble with jacket in cotton with silver coating, and skirt in cotton, partly with silver coating, with plastic baleens, decorated with trimmings, Yohji Yamamoto, S/S 2008, MoMu collection T09/1 and T09/2 / Ensemble with jacket in tweed, skirt in a mixture of silk, manmade silk and lurex with crinoline in cotton and plastic baleens, leather stiletto boots and an oversized hat in felt, Walter Van Beirendonck, F/W 2010-11.

Dress and stole in printed organza silk, Christian Dior, ca. 1954 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dress and stole in printed organza silk, Christian Dior, ca. 1954 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dress in digital printed silk, Peter Pilotto, S/S 2012 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

Dress in digital printed silk, Peter Pilotto, S/S 2012 feat. in MOMU3 X BULO by Frederik Heyman and Wout Bosschaert

MOTIFS: For centuries motifs have decorated tissues figurative or abstract in a variation of colours, that are applied in a variation of techniques: painted, printed, embroided, weaved. The motif can be used sparingly or abundantly, small or large, clear or gauzy,… it’s the tailor and designer who choose to use the motif (or not), in combination with a pattern to come to a creation with his or her signature that describes a contemporary fashion image.
Featuring: Jacket in woolen jacquard weave with kashmir pattern, decorated with silk trimmings, ca. 1885, MoMu collection T12/108/M27 / Dress and stole in printed organza silk, Christian Dior, ca. 1954, MoMu collection T12/98AB/J204 / Dress in digital printed silk, Peter Pilotto, S/S 2012, MoMu collection T12/820

The films are also on view in a video installation at the renewed Bulo headquarters in Mechelen from October 11th until November 30th (free entrance).

MOMU3 – film credits: Art direction by Frederik Heyman, 3D Scans & 3D designs by Wout Bosschaert, Music & sound design by Golden Hum, Curated by Kaat Debo.

Collection, Edition, Event

Queens of the North Sea

Still Credits

Fashion drawing, beach ensemble decorated with Valenciennes lace and toile with ajour embroidery. Fémina, 1905

At the start of the 20th century, during the Belle Epoque, Belgium’s seaside town Ostend was at its height as a fashionable European summer destination for the bourgeois families. New fashions were being bought and showed during the social activities, such as the races and golf tournaments, during the summer season.

The role of Ostend as a town where people went to see and be seen, and as a centre for the development of the ‘coastal etiquette’ for the upper classes is described in the book Koninginnen aan de Noordzee (Queens of the North Sea) by Tom Sintobin (VUB).

Still credits

Fashion gravure, bathing suits in squared cheviot and serge marine. La Mode Illustré, 1903

An article by Wim Mertens and Karen Van Godtsenhoven (Les élégantes, fashion during the Ostend season 1900-1905) is featured in this publication, focusing on the fashions related to the new sea-side activities, and will be presented at a book presentation on Saturday October 19th , 2:30 PM, in the panoramic hall of the cultural centre De Grote Post.

The book presentation is accompanied by a screening of Henri Storck’s ‘Image d’Ostende’.
Entrance is free but registration is required: cultuur@oostende.be